Zimbabwe - The Spirit of Matobo (Matopos)

 There can be fewer finer examples of the beauty and mystery of the natural world than in Zimbabwe's Matobo Hills. Add to this the intrigue of man's existence among the balancing rocks and bald hills, and you will see why the Matobo should be on every visitor's itinerary. Story by Andrew Campbell, with photographs by Eric Gauss.

As I stand on the summit of Malindidzimu, the "Place of Benevolent Spirits", with the sun's first pale rays starting to take the night's chill from the granite beneath my hiking boots, I really envy Cecil John Rhodes.

No man could ask for a more dramatic burial site. His grave, hewn from solid rock almost a hundred years ago and topped with a simply-inscribed slab of bronze, is a modest memorial to an empire-builder who left an indelible imprint on the continent of Africa. But the setting is incomparable.

To my right the sunrise flashes fire from the cross atop Inungu, "The Porcupine". In the valley far below a herd of sable antelope makes its way to water, shouldering aside the head-high summer grass. Into the silence a lone baboon barks a challenge. Another day has dawned in the Matobo Hills.

Rhodes is not the only man to have felt the magical attraction of these hills. And his are not the only bones to have found their final resting place here. Buried in secret caves, lost deep in the leaf mould of clefts and crevices, or scattered in the thick grass of the valleys are reminders of those who have made the Matobo Hills their home over thousands of years.

The present peace and serenity of the area belies its turbulent history. From the Stone Age to recent times, it has been both a place of worship and a place of refuge during rebellion, a hunting ground and a battleground.

The key to the inexplicable attraction of the hills lies in the dramatic, tumbled landscape itself. Looking at the rock formations one might imagine they were the result of some tumultuous eruption or explosive force. In fact, they were formed by imperceptible erosion over two thousand million years. The hills have been sculpted by the elements from massive blocks of granite that originated deep within the Earth's crust. Heat and cold, freeze and thaw, wind and rain all helped.

First the outer blanket of earth was stripped away, then valleys were carved out along natural lines of weakness. As the surrounding landscape was eroded, hills began to stand proud and to take on their present-day shapes.

The hills, known locally as kopjes, fall into two main categories. The balancing "castle kopjes" are formed by the rock splitting along natural lines of weakness, or joints. In the Matobo these joints run noticeably from North to South and East to West. So the balancing piles of "building blocks" that look as though they have been carefully constructed from the ground up are, in fact, constantly forming themselves from the top down. And because the boulders on the summit are more exposed to nature's weathering effects they tend to be more rounded than the angular blocks at the base of the hills.

The great smooth "whalebacks" or "dwalas" were formed by a similar process of faulting, but along curved joints running parallel to the surface. Great slabs or sheets of rock peel off and slide down the hills in a process known as "onion skin layering". These forces of erosion, invisible but inevitable, are constantly at work and the wearing away of the granite creates the characteristically sandy soil of the area. So it is conceivable that, in millions of years to come, this dramatic landscape will return to the flat, featureless plain it once was.

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Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

Zimbabwe Lowveld and Great Zimbabwe

The hot, dry lowveld of south-eastern Zimbabwe is the Africa of poster images; red earth and silhouetted baobabs against a fiery sunset sky. Granite domes dwarf the spreadeagled msasa trees and private ranches and game conservancies sprawl over the malarial plains protecting, among other large mammal species, the endangered black rhino. This region is home to private game farms and sugar-cane plantations, several National Parks and one of the country's best-known World Heritage sites.

Masvingo:

Great Zimbabwe is 28km from Masvingo, the only sizeable town in the region. If you find yourself in Masvingo, you'll probably just be passing through. If you have an idle hour or two check out the Church of St Francis of Assisi.

Constructed by Italian prisoners of war during the 2nd World War, 71 didn't make it and their bodies lie interred in the walls. It's located opposite the military barracks. Just ask for directions.

Just past the Publicity Association, the Masvingo Craft Village has an extensive range of carvings and sculpture. There are roadside crafts out of town on the Beit Bridge road where you'll be able to bargain for a better price. Capota School for the Blind has a world-famous choir and cane crafts are also sold.

Great Zimbabwe:

The historic site is made up of three complexes. Visit the on-site museum or do some research first or the stones will not give up their tale. The Acropolis on the hill was the Royal enclosure. It was probably built first and there is evidence that it was occupied for three hundred years. Spirit mediums and oracles occupied the ritual enclosure and gold and metal craftsmen supplied the kingdom with jewellery and spears.

The Valley Enclosures yielded the famous Zimbabwe soapstone birds but it is the conical tower of the Great Enclosure that visitors will recognise from the postcard images. No mortar has held these stones together over the centuries.

Speculation has it that this was the royal harem which would make the largest ancient stone structure in sub-Saharan Africa all the more impressive. It is the conical tower of the Great Enclosure that visitors will recognise from the postcard images. The stone towers and walled enclosures are relics of a powerful medieval African kingdom.

The Karanga came from the north across the Zambezi and found life easy here amongst the fertile soil and rocky hills. The story goes that the thirteenth century king nicknamed 'the Stone Man' was the 'mambo' responsible for the building of the walls.

It was to him that the people paid tribute in stone to add to the defensive walls. Upon his death, a spirit medium carved the image of the bird that has become a national symbol of modern day Zimbabwe. The original seven can be seen at the museum on site.

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Eco-Tourism in Zimbabwe - A Certain Style

Since its foundation by local conservationists in 1994 over 1300 animals (including Black and White rhino, eland and sable) have been relocated into Malilangwe, at a cost of US$4.2m, to counter game depletion caused by competition with cattle and agriculture. Zimbabwe’s largest private nature sanctuary now contains the country’s widest variety of wildlife, including over 400 bird species. The Big Five are regularly spotted among the hills, woodlands and savannahs, interspersed with gems including Wild dog and oribi. Game-monitoring and anti-poaching systems are, naturally, comprehensive.

Funds were initially raised from a conservation organisation, but now the reserve earns income from Pamushana and its slightly humbler sister lodge, Nduna. For all its glamour, Pamushana was built from indigenous materials, with traditional thatching and stonework reminiscent of Great Zimbabwe.

Malilangwe’s Neighbour Outreach Programme is also impressive. Spending on community projects totals over Z$31m. Pages long, the list of concrete achievements includes the construction of clinics and classrooms, the provision of bursaries to over 280 primary, secondary and tertiary students, and the donation of textbooks worth Z$450,000 to schools. The trust has also provided cash and assistance worth more than Z$500,000 to neighbouring Gonarezhou NP, while promoting sustainable land use and nurturing local businesses.

Among the beneficiaries is the Hluvuko Theatre Group, which Malilangwe is supporting during Zimbabwean tourism’s current crisis. Elsewhere, local enterprises are less fortunate. Over 30 communities in Zimbabwe rely on income from tourism under CAMPFIRE (Communal Areas Management Programme for Indigenous Resources), a widely admired, pioneering venture aimed at resolving the conflict over land between wildlife and people. Since its inception in 1989 over 250,000 rural Zimbabweans have taken control of their natural resources. Wildlife is now respected as a breadwinner.

Many trustee organisations are behind CAMPFIRE, including the Wildlife Department, to which hopeful district councils must apply. Some CAMPFIRE communities raise income by leasing land to tour operators such as the horseback safari company in Mavuradona. Others offer cultural and wildlife tourism themselves. In Mazoe, Sunungukai Camp is run by a locally elected committee and offers hiking, fishing and guided small game and birding walks. Guests can camp or stay in traditional huts, eat with villagers and enjoy storytelling and dancing.

Conservation is particularly important in CAMPFIRE areas adjacent to national parks, where conflict between wildlife and man has been greatest. Using funds raised, communities can fence their crops against wildlife (rather than killing it). Income is distributed to individual households, but is often pooled again for communal purposes — to improve schools or to buy a grinding mill. “There are problems to face, but I see CAMPFIRE as a child learning to walk,” says the project’s Cherry Bird. “Sometimes it falls, but you don’t abandon it saying it will be a cripple for life, you pick it up… and set it on its way again. If you look after it well, teach it and feed it, maybe it will look after you in your old age.” Her words could apply to any community tourism project in Africa. Hopefully Zimbabwe’s CAMPFIRE communities will emerge from the country’s current difficulties walking tall.

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Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

During the first two weeks of October every year small groups of men spill silently out of ski-boats moored in thick reeds and scramble up crocodile-infested sandbanks. They walk along the shores of Lake Kariba in north-western Zimbabwe, prodding the soft soil frequently with metre-long metal spikes.

Worn Leather Hat Adorned With Animal Claws

In the lead is a man who could have stepped from the pages of a Wilbur Smith novel: Darryl Edwards is tall, dark, handsome and exceptionally smart. His well-developed five o'clock shadow is shaded by a worn leather hat adorned with animal claws.He is a man of no unnecessary words or smiles who, behind his undisclosing face, holds a deep understanding of nature and a Masters degree in Animal Science. His rugged colleague, Garry Sutton, would look quite at ease in a Camel safari advertisement. Unaware of their hero-like appeal they exchange glances and walk in opposite directions.

Out of the heart of Africa, these two mysterious men are real-life Crocodile Dundees. They are hired by a Harare crocodile farm to collect as many eggs during the short laying season as possible, and are actively encouraged by the National Parks Board.

Finding a Croc's Nest is not that Easy

Nile crocodiles inhabit Lake Kariba in their thousands and are breeding too successfully and pose a real threat to village life on the banks of this enormous lake. Accompanied by a National Parks Board officer, we cruised along a designated 65km concession of Kariba shore during the brief laying season at the beginning of October, looking for nests.

The nests proved extremely hard to find as the eggs are laid about half a metre under the surface in a pit which the female crocodile fastidiously covers with sand. She conceals it further with gravel, leaves or dry grass so that even a seasoned crocodile egg-hunting expert finds them hard to spot.

Spoor indicating a nest, such as the drag mark of a heavy tail from the water's edge or a test hole that the female has previously dug to check the suitability of her site, are often the only indications of a nest. Sam Chiningo is a long-standing egg collector and needs no such obvious clues.

He possesses an uncanny instinct, which enables him to find more nests than any of his colleagues. A sprinkling of sand on a rock may be the only sign he needs to locate the hidden eggs. The rest of the crew prod deeply into the soft sand at every suitable spot while Sam strides towards an unlikely patch in the bushes.

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Zimbabwe - article from Wikipedia

Zimbabwe (pronounced /zɪmˈbɑːbweɪ/), officially the Republic of Zimbabwe, and formerly Southern Rhodesia, the Republic of Rhodesia and Zimbabwe Rhodesia, is a landlocked country in the southern part of the continent of Africa, between the Zambezi and Limpopo rivers. It is bordered by South Africa to the south, Botswana to the southwest, Zambia to the northwest, and Mozambique to the east. The official language of Zimbabwe is English. However, the majority of the population speaks Shona, which is the native language of the Shona people; the other native language of Zimbabwe being Sindebele, which is spoken by the Matabele people.

From circa 1250–1629, the area that is known as Zimbabwe today was ruled under the Mutapa Empire, also known as Mwene Mutapa, Monomotapa or the Empire of Great Zimbabwe, which was renowned for its gold trade routes with Arabs. However, Portuguese settlers destroyed the trade and began a series of wars which left the empire near collapse in the early 17th century. In 1834, the Ndebele people people arrived while fleeing from the Zulu leader Shaka, making the area their new empire, Matabeleland. In the 1880s, the British arrived with Cecil Rhodes‘ British South Africa Company. In 1898, the name Southern Rhodesia was adopted.

As colonial rule was ending throughout the continent, and as African-majority governments assumed control in neighbouring Northern Rhodesia and in Nyasaland, the white-minority Rhodesia government led by Ian Smith made a Unilateral Declaration of Independence (UDI) from the United Kingdom on 11 November 1965. The United Kingdom deemed this an act of rebellion, but did not re-establish control by force. The white-minority regime declared itself a “republic” in 1970. It was not recognised by the UK or any other state, other than white minority-led South Africa.

A civil war ensued, with Joshua Nkomo’s ZAPU and Robert Mugabe’s ZANU using assistance from the governments of Zambia and Mozambique.

On 18 April 1980, the country attained independence and along with it a new name, Zimbabwe, new flag, and government led by Robert Mugabe of ZANU. Canaan Banana served as the first president with Mugabe as Prime Minister. In 1987, the government amended the Constitution to provide for an Executive President and abolished the office of Prime Minister. The constitutional changes went into effect on 1 January 1988, establishing Robert Mugabe as President.

Under the leadership of Mugabe, land issues, which the liberation movement promised to solve, reemerged as the vital issue in the 1990s. Beginning in 2000, Mugabe began an effort to redistribute land from white holders (predominantly large farms) to 250,000 Africans.

Zimbabwe is currently experiencing a hard currency shortage, which has led to hyperinflation and chronic shortages in imported fuel and consumer goods. Mugabe’s critics blame his programme of land reform. However, Mugabe claims that massive financial isolation through American, British and EU legislation such as the Zimbabwe Democracy and Economic Recovery act of 2001 is the actual cause of hyperinflation. Under ZDERA, the IMF and other financial institutions are prohibited from extending loans, credit or cancelling debt to the government of Zimbabwe. As Zimbabwe needs to import all its energy, and oil is paid for in US dollars, this made the country vulnerable to financial sanctions like ZDERA.

Zimbabwe’s current economic and food crisis, described by some observers as the country’s worst humanitarian crisis since independence, has been attributed, in varying degrees, to a drought affecting the entire region, the HIV/AIDS epidemic, and the government’s price controls and land reforms.^[1]

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Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

A case of two Zimbabwe’s

This is my first post in over four weeks. In the four weeks, I was also in Zimbabwe for the not-so-festive season for two weeks, from the 20th to the 31st December. I came back through Botswana hoping to catch some sight of MDC bandits toy-toying but had no such luck.

My experience in Zimbabwe was very sobering. You get this sense that there is this Zimbabwe we picture in the Diaspora and that Zimbabwe happening on the ground. The Zimbabwe on the ground is surprisingly in a slumber, except perhaps for the very politically involved.

In the two weeks I do not remember reading the newspaper or really sitting down to listen to the TV. I would therefore try to glean information from the common man and not only did they not quite know what was taking place, they did not seem to care too much. Not to say they are not clear what they want, but they do not unnecessarily want to burden themselves with the nitty-gritty’s of things they cannot influence. Or so they think: let me return to this point later.

I therefore concluded that we in the Diaspora with our access to the news channels online and everywhere, we are our own worst enemies, cranking ourselves into a frenzy. We are constantly checking the email for the next news, anxiously hoping for some movement. My new year resolution is to do less of that.

Those on the ground where the news is happening have only one worry, how to survive the next day (if of course they have not been abducted, which is another story altogether!). With the virtual dollarization of the economy, it can be argued that things are now ‘better’, only in the sense that basics are now widely available and in some cases are getting progressively cheaper. Some towns are madder than others, as I recall protesting vociferously as I purchased one litre of milk in Bulawayo at thrice its shelf price in South Africa. There were of course some pleasant surprises, fuel as a good example, which I was buying in coupon form at prices slightly below South African ones at the time.

The sticking point of course is that not everyone is earning the dollar or rand, or the improvised equivalent which has become legal tender, coupons. The dealers meet the hard currency on the streets, but the civil servant is the worst victim, as the government has not devised any inventive remuneration schemes to protect their work force as the private sector has done.

What dollarization has also done is to take away the advantage those with foreign currency had in an environment where local currency operated, where a small bit of currency like USD$10 could be ‘burnt’, literally multiplied, by changing it to local currency at astronomical cross rates. The local currency is now almost redundant.

If Zanu PF could find a way of getting SADC to pour into the economy the rand as official tender, and of course support it by ensuring there is enough for the civil service to be paid, it could effectively complete a coup on the MDC and afford it to completely sideline them as is their wish.

SADC (read as South Africa and others) has shown the appetite to circumvent the demands for fair play by coming up with a SADC vehicle to distribute aid they had vowed could only be distributed after a Unity Government is in place. Others will argue of course that they were thinking of the povo instead of the selfish politicians. One wonders what else they are prepared to do in defence of a brother-in-arms.

Their only worry would be the fiscal indiscipline and endemic corruption in Mugabe’s government; SADC taxpayers would cry foul and lose these leaders support at home.

What I can see is that Zimbabwe has become a test case on the battle of wits between erstwhile ‘Colonial’ Powers and African Liberation Movements. The later are determined to prove that Africans can govern, indeed can resolve their own issues, peer to peer. They are determined to resist the prescriptions of the West and America on who should govern and how they should govern, in their circles such a prescription read as ‘Tsvangirai and the MDC-T’.

No wonder then at Mutambara’s overboard vitriolic in singing from the same pages of Mugabe’s hymn book. The truth of the issue is that this hymn book is the official African Leaders’ song book if they are to be deemed truly African, and to be trusted with carrying forward the gains of the liberation struggle.

On seeing Zimbabwe on the ground, the position espoused by the MDC of hoping that Zimbabwe will ‘crash and burn’ so they would pick up the pieces afterwards, to quote Eddie Cross the Policy Co-ordinator of the party, may be a long way in coming. You ought to remember that Zimbabwe with an estimated seven million people left in the country has a smaller population than Soweto at about thirteen million. As long as South Africa props up this regime, it will never crash, the South African fiscus can uphold it with ease. It is like an average province of South Africa really.

I said earlier that Zimbabweans do not seem to care much what is happening around them, but on closer inquiry, you realise that they have this total faith in the leadership of the MDC-T to bring them the change they hope for. I have read and heard many deride Morgan Tsvangirai for his naivety and not being resourceful as a leader; but I believe it is this apparent simplicity required for Zimbabwean politics in practice. Look how the think-tanks, from Jonathan Moyo and of late Mutambara, seem to trip over themselves.

The average voter in Zimbabwe knows a few simple facts: Firstly Tsvangirai ndizvo! (basically means, he is the man of the moment); secondly Mutambara mutengesi (meaning he is a sell-out); thirdly Makoni is not serious, fourthly Mugabe and Zanu PF are killers and on their way out and finally that hapana chisingaperi, kana muroyi chaiye anofa (Nothing lasts forever, even a witch will suffer the inescapable fate of death.)

As I wrote in an earlier article, MDC Prevarications must stop, this does not mean that peoples’ attitudes are cast in stone and should an inventive politician arise, the ball game could change for Tsvangirai. Makoni was the hope of some if his Mavambo project had not faltered soon after elections. Also, the going of Mugabe is no guarantee of better days with his junta likely to usurp power (he is Legion, as Magora would put it!), so this waiting game to me is not very meaningful. It is on this premise that I have supported the idea of the MDC getting into a Unity Government with any leverage whatsoever. Others disagree, with good reasons too.

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The Hide | Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

 The Tourist Attractions of Zimbabwe:

Zimbabwe has some stunning natural features which serve as the country’s major tourist attractions, the most impressive of these being Victoria Falls.

Victoria Falls are even more imposing than Niagara Falls, standing at twice their height and several times longer though also with the benefit of the natural landscape around them. Victoria Falls is definitely one of the must-see sights in the world!

Although the Falls span the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, the best places from which to view them are undoubtedly on the Zimbabwean side, plus you can enjoy the rest of the Victoria Falls National Park from here too, which certainly warrants more than a days visit. You can stay in the nearby town of the same name.

The Falls are most impressive during the rainy season of November to March because there is a far greater volume of water passing over them and although the thunder of water will be far louder, you won’t actually be able to see too much of the rock formations behind the Falls as they will be hidden by the water! However, in the dry season, between April to October, the volume of water is far less, yet you can see the rocks; so when you choose to go depends on what you would rather see!

There are 8 main National Parks altogether in Zimbabwe, the largest of which is Hwange National Park situated in the south west of the country. This is a great place from which to view wildlife in their natural habitats, and in fact the park is home to all of Zimbabwe’s protected animals. However, elephants have been so successful here that there are really too many of them to be supported in this environment.

Other than the natural attractions, Zimbabwe also has a number of man-made ones. There are many ancient ruined cities here, including the most famous of these – Great Zimbabwe and the Great Zimbabwe National Monument. This was the home of the ancient Monomotapa Empire, or Empire of Great Zimbabwe. The city is an archaeological site and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986 because of its importance. The ruins cover a huge radius – between 100-200 miles (160 to 320km).

If cities are more your thing, Harare (the capital) has some attractions worth visiting for tourists interested in the cultural and historical heritage which can be seen in a number of the preserved older buildings. For a bird’s eye view of the city, climb the granite hill, called the Kopje, in the south west corner of the city centre.

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The Hide | Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

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The Hide | Zimbabwe Safari Lodge

Five Tips For Planning Your Luxury African Safari

When planning a luxury African Safari, you need to think about many different aspects of your trip, such as the time of year you will travel, how long you will be away, the type of accommodation you prefer, your budget and any special interests you want to pursue. These five tips can help you and your travel planner from African Portfolio plan a luxury African safari that will meet all your hopes and dreams.

Do Some Research – Before you even contact a company like African Portfolio, it helps if you have done some prior research so you can start to formulate where you’d like to go and what type of safari experience you would like. Read some travel books and articles to start gaining an understanding of what to expect when you are on safari. Then, once you’ve narrowed done your options, get in touch with African Portfolio and have them assist you in planning every aspect of your luxury African safari.

Determine Your Budget – It’s no secret that a luxury African safari will be more expensive than most typical vacations you enjoy. The difference in cost between various safari itineraries comes from the safari destination and the camp or lodge chosen. Planning a safari can be complex and your travel professional from African Portfolio can help explain all the costs associated with your trip. It’s important that you and your travel partner come up with a budget you are comfortable with and communicate that with your travel specialist so that he or she can create an itinerary that meets both your needs and your budget.


Luxury Accommodations – If you’ve chosen a luxury African safari for your travel experience, then you can expect your accommodations to be of high quality and comfort. In addition, all other facets of your trip like the food, service, facilities and amenities will be first rate.


The Big 5 – Chances are that your luxury African safari won’t be complete if you don’t have the opportunity to witness the ‘big five’ – leopard, lion, elephant, rhino and buffalo. Your African safari travel planner can help you choose a destination that will give you a better chance of seeing the big five depending on the time of year you are traveling.


Convenience – Another benefit of planning a luxury African safari is that you will likely be afforded greater convenience in terms of your proximity to the animal reserves. African Portfolio features several camps and lodges with private airstrips that are close to camp giving you much shorter transfer times. That way, you can enjoy more time on safari and taking in the wonders of Africa.

To enjoy the unspoiled African wild and everything it has to offer, it’s best to work with the experts at African Portfolio. African Portfolio is a specialized United States based tour operator focusing exclusively on organizing tours and safaris to Africa. They are well suited to planning your luxury African safari based on your needs, interests and budget. African Portfolio’s itineraries draw on the resources of highly respected professional guides, incorporate the leading safari camps and lodges, and offer unique adventure and safari activities. Call African Portfolio today and let them help you plan a luxury African safari for your next vacation adventure!